Friday, September 19, 2014

The International Orch Dork

     Though I am continuing to travel around and explore amazing sights over my year here, I have settled down in Belgium.  The beginning of school means I can officially say the vacation period of my stay has worn-off.  In the materials that I was asked to read and by the discussions during outbound training in Charleston, the period as a house guest as opposed to another contributing member home was explained as normal, but not permanent.  I think this is where the difference between a short-term and a long-term exchange is the greatest, because the people I'm interacting with are not temporary players.  I will be here for one year, and using the frequency of community events and amount of times I see people while walking through a small town on my way to school, there is no physical way I can't make connections with others. Yes, even with a language barrier that is diminishing at a agonizingly variable rate.*

   I've been in the wonderful land of Belgium for over a month, and it's lovely, fantastic, absolutely brilliant, and not the exact way I'm used to living.  Without being homesick (sorry, parents, this is nothing against you-love you both!) there has been a lot of change and quick adaptation.  When I was thinking about doing an exchange, there was one class I was regretful about missing during my final year of high school.  Beginning my days in Chamber Orchestra kept my head on straight (and not exploding!) while preparing me for the rest of the A-days when I had my AP courses.  From the time I began learning how to play the Viola from Mrs. Parvin in fifth grade, Strings class quickly became a beloved ritualistic part of my school schedule.  For seven years, I've been sick of practicing Christmas music by October but whipped into shape to play by December due to that brilliantly wise, stubborn woman.  I admire her greatly for bravely accepting the responsibility the instruction of children-and taller, more hormonal children- at the middle and high school, because I'll go off in a foreign country for a year before I even attempt her job.  She's my other mother, superwoman to her students, and one of my greatest supporters in all that I do.  I always knew I would miss her class the time came for me to take the proverbial final bow.  With school starting in Belgium, I had prepared myself for not having a music class, and not being a part of a mysterious family known as an orchestra.

   I firmly believe music is it's own language. On Tuesdays, I'm putting my other communication skills to the test.

   My host parents were extremely kind to lease a Viola for my use during this year after I realized my instrument could not travel on the plane to Belgium.  Thanks to the friends of my host parents, I was invited to play with a community Orchestra in France and had a fantastic evening!  The largest orchestra I've ever played with would be at All-County, where violin, viola, cello and bass players who qualify from schools in Oconee County play together in a one night concert every year.  I have never played with anything approaching a full Orchestra, which include different families than just stringed instruments, before.  Hearing the woodwinds, drums, and other musicians play with the strings section gave me chills.

   The conductor spoke French (in France, can you imagine?) but I remembered the musical terms and was able to follow those directions.  However, it gave me a quick crash course in numbers and arrangements when I realized I didn't know them quite as well as I thought I did.  The beauty of the piece is much easier for the ear to capture when the viola actually starts at the same place with the rest of the orchestra.  Even if I was seeing the music for the first time, and even if it took me a few measures (ahem, sometimes bars, usually incorrectly) to join in, it was still a rush I didn't know I was missing.  By some oversight or miracle, I was invited back to play with them on Tuesday nights.

   I could easily wax poetic about the moving power of music, as much better writers and musicians have done before.  However, I won't do the euphoria from creating a living piece of art justice, so this is my first chance to invoke the use of the international exchange student slogan.  It was repeated to me countless times in preparation, and this is my first chance to try it out myself.

   Well, I guess you had to be there.

   In all seriousness, there is a connection between musicians who are working together to bring life to a masterpiece of music.  That transcends cultures, countries, and continents.  It felt excellent be doing something I felt was completely understood.  For two hours, I was playing with total strangers in France,  but completely in my comfort zone.  The exchange pushes so many boundaries mentally and blurs perceptions, though I understand that is one benefit of an exchange.  I'm not advocating being a recluse or creating a comfort zone, because it's only a cage stifling personal growth.  However, for a night, I was expressing myself (almost) perfectly again, and while showing an art that matters to me with people who cared about music, too.  Honestly, I think my ease of transition is partially due to the outlet playing provides.  Once again, through practice and sharing in the community of players, music keeps me sane.

_________
*A quick diatribe on my French progress:  There are days where I make leaps and bounds in comprehension of French, but then there's the day where my skull has been filled with so much information in a strict capacity the mass collapses into a swirling black hole of absolutely nothing and my body is plotting my next position for a nap while my mind remains a dark void.  I was told this was typical while being immersed in a new language.  As far as progress goes, my first week was spent trying to match the little I knew with what I heard, which was difficult because I a) knew less than the very little I thought I did and b) have a not-quite-as-charming-anymore southern accent which wasn't corrected when I was read the words to myself while studying in SC.  The next two weeks were spent trying to understand what the words people were saying actually were (don't laugh until you've experienced a conversation where it's correct and expected for the words to blend together thanks to a French frienemy called a liaison) which changed sometime in week four.  At this point, I recognize what the words are when they are said, and quickly recognize the ones I know,  along with others I've heard before to try to discover (and probably be wrong about) the context.  While my thoughts aren't in French yet, my writing style has changed, as well as the patterns of my thoughts.  The time it takes me to translate French to English in my head and then English to French in order to respond is still long, but noticeably shorter every week.  It isn't necessary with very, very simple questions, either.  I am making progress when I'm not sleeping!

Saturday, September 6, 2014

Château de Versailles

   I don't think there is a way to say this without sounding morbid.  It's close to the same dilemma I had taking photos in crypts at Pierrefonds.  It's dark, bleak, and surrounded by death, but I'm thrilled about the history while aware of the solemnity.  Should I stand there and smile?  With this awareness in mind, try to see this next statement as coming from someone with a deep appreciation the sacrifice and wishes to preserve the legacy.
   I am very grateful to be Europe in August of 2014, a century after the beginning of World War One. Memorials are everywhere, and the public seems very aware of the impact it had on everyone. It irrevocably changed millions of lives through the loss of life or that of loved ones.  Even my town of Comines was German-occupied and destroyed.  It was interesting being in Paris during August of this year and seeing the signs and memorials in place to remember the past.  There was even military officers and a band present as we drove around the Arc de Triomphe.  I got to visit another historical landmark in France after the Eiffel Tower.  The Palace of Versailles was absolutely breathtaking, and the town seemed like another city immersed in art and aware of its history.

    We made it into Versailles and checked in to our hotel before going to find a sidewalk restaurant for dinner.  Afterwards, we walked over to the Palace of Versailles and caught a look without crowds.  The Palace is massive, sprawling acres upon acres.
The next morning, we went to the Palace early in the morning in order to try to beat the crowds.  Coming an hour early had us almost some of the first people there.  

The gates that effectively keep people out until it is time to enter!

Here I am in front of the center portion of the Palace.  Another wing extends to the right, currently under renovation, and the Chapel and living rooms are on the left.  Around five thousand people were on the grounds of the Palace daily before the French Revolution!  






Here are some examples of the rooms we could take pictures in.  We were allowed to take photos without flash photography, but the other people enjoying the lavish rooms made it challenging. All of the rooms had been ruined and trashed during the French Revolution, but a fair few of the pieces are actually original!  The restoration team at the Palace is working to this day to track down surviving pieces from private collections and other prominent museums like the Met and Smithsonian to arrange to return the pieces.  When they cannot be, they find suitable replacement pieces from the same period or craft painstakingly accurate replicas.  The restoration of hundreds of rooms is an eternally ongoing process.  I commend them for their effort!


The Cathedral used for Coronations and even occasional Mass services to this day.

The Hall of Mirrors was truly gorgeous on a day with sunny weather!  The light reflected beautifully coming in from the side of the palace.  I was really impressed with the masterpieces painted on the ceiling, spanning the entire length of the room.  Here is a close picture of one of many sections of the arched ceiling.
The grounds of the Palace are massive with an actual topiary maze and village, along with a second mansion for Marie Antoinette.  


The trip was breathtakingly beautiful and unforgettable.  I am extremely grateful for the great company, fond memories and fantastic experience!  We drove a back to Belgium that afternoon after a lovely day spent frolicking around the Palace.
I can't be the only one who had a brilliant summer.  Tell me about a surprise on the way to destination, or what you did during this summer in the comments, please! 

Just A Quick Detour

    Our next scheduled shop for the day was Versailles for dinner.  However, it came to the attention of the amazing Natalie, mother of Margot, that I had never been to Paris.  She announced we would be taking a detour.
It is quintessential for an appreciation of France.
It was a little out of the way, but it would be worth it.
I am amazed at how small the world can be.  I've met a Rotarian that has visited his brother in Greenville, South Carolina, and several that have visited Charleston.  However, I am very thankful for the kindness of people like Natalie who take advantage of proximity in order to give me an experience I will never forget.

I am very grateful for the opportunity to visit the Effiel Tower!



 The tower is incredibly ornate, and looks like a contradiction of sturdy steel but delicate accents.
Wait a minute, is that the Statue of Liberty?  Actually, it's her twin.  The Statue of Liberty was originally a gift from France.  This Statue of Liberty faces the Atlantic Ocean, and consequently her sister in the New York Harbor.  It was dedicated in November of 1889, three years and a month after the other Statue was unveiled in New York. There is actually a third Statue of Liberty in the Colmar, where the French sculptor Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi was born.
     If I haven't stated it enough, let me say it again to be clear.  I am very humbled and grateful for this experience.  I am having a stellar time and feel deeply thankful to Natalie, Rotary, and those that have helped me have this journey.  Thank you all!  From a Carolina Girl Abroad, thank y'all!

Pierrefond Castle in France


    I was very fortunate to be invited along for a trip into France for sightseeing!  The trip was planned to be a quick overnight tour of two castles.  As someone who loves medieval history and historical artifacts, getting to visit Château de Pierrefonds and Château de Versailles was fantastic and a dream come true! It was a lovely girls’ only with the wife of my YEO, her daughter, and the other exchange student living in Comines as company. They were very nice and kind to include me.
Our first stop was to visit the castle of Pierrefonds in a beautiful little town.  Even looking back with the distance of another week under my belt in Europe, I can’t get over architecture and natural beauty of the scenery around me in  the cities, and I hope I never do.

   Pierrefonds is a gorgeous twelfth century medieval castle in France.  It was renovated in the nineteenth century, because the castle was almost destroyed during the French Revolution.  The structure remained intact while the furnishings, tapestries, and walls were decimated.  Napoleon the First bought the castle in 1810 for less than three thousand francs.  Viollet-Le-Duc was asked to lead the restoration project in 1857, but was cautioned to keep certain ruins for picturesque purposes. 
 The four turrets are connected by halls, rooms, and passageways with openings to see out.  The center of the castle is a courtyard filled with cobblestone on the ground.  The castle can also boast a church protected within the fortress.




On Right, the brilliant Elise from Australia posing with friendly Margot and myself attempting to figure out what to do in the photo in front of a fireplace in one grand chamber.

This is a renovated portion of the castle in the King's Chambers.  It is a depiction of the stages of a Knight's life, surrounding the room boarder at the top of the room that the King slept in.  They are not original from he Middle Ages, but an addition added during the renovation the 1800s.



 I've been seated in the Belgian Parliament and been in three castles since I've arrived in Belgium.

There's quite a few jokes I would like to put here, but in the interest of seeing more I will refrain.


WE FOUND EXCALIBUR!  It was out of the stone already, apparently.  Actually, Pierrefonds Castle was the filming location for scenes from the television Arthurian Legend retelling Merlin, as well as Highlander and the movie The Man in the Iron Mask.  This is a sword displayed in the King's Chambers.

 This is the view from entering the an audience chamber, that is now used for displays of medieval suits of armor.